The Covered Bridge Cellars Blog

Annahala Vineyard

As we continue to work on finishing up our website, we have started to gather some more information on the vineyards we are sourcing fruit from. A handful of the sites that Crushpad gives us access to are managed by Premier Pacific Vineyards, a developer and manager of high-end vineyards. One of those is Annahala Vineyard, a new source for us this year. Here is a description of PPV's business from their website:

Creating high-end vineyards is the central activity of Premier Pacific Vineyards. We provide the capital, secure the best sites, and develop world-class vineyards at the appropriate times in the wine business cycle. As our vineyards begin producing and proving their quality, wineries searching for new high-quality vineyards can lease or purchase from our portfolio of vineyard properties in the best winegrowing regions of California, Oregon and Washington. This allows fine wine producers to focus on what they do best: produce great wines and build successful brands.

Our business is keenly focused on the needs of luxury wineries and our vineyard portfolio reflects that. Great wines require great vineyards and Premier Pacific Vineyards develops only the best sites using the latest viticultural techniques to maximize quality and the expression of terroir.

In addition to what they do out in the real world, PPV, maintains a very useful website, particularly if you're trying to get in depth information on any of their vineyards, like we are. Their Vineyard Properties page has links to extensive PDF documents for almost every site in their portfolio. You have to register to download the document, but if you're interested in this kind of information be sure to check it out. There is soil, climate, and a host of other technical data available, along with maps and photos. The link for Annahala Vineyard in Anderson Valley is provided below:

Annahala Vineyard

Here is the description for this site:

Annahala® is located halfway between the towns of Philo and Boonville on Highway 128 in Mendocino County.  Taking advantage of the cool Pacific Ocean air that funnels from the “Deep End” of the Anderson Valley toward Boonville, Annahala® is ideally influenced to produce world-class Pinot Noir.  This, combined with Premier Pacific Vineyards’ expert development and viticulture, helps to make Annahala® an excellent choice for winemakers looking to source world-class Anderson Valley Pinot Noir.

One project we have planned for the future is to use Google Earth Pro to create a fly-bye movie of this vineyard along with Hein and Alder Springs. These movies will reside on dedicated vineyard web pages for each of our sources, along with other information. The end product is pretty cool, but again, this is sort of down on this list of priority items right now.

Jeremy

Anderson Valley Vineyard Updates

Two new Crushpad updates have come out for the Hein and Annahala vineyards. It looks like the Hein fruit is a little behind, while the Pinot at Annahala is a little ahead in terms of Brix levels. This is as expected given the relative locations of these two vineyards within Anderson Valley. Hein is well within the Deep End of the valley, which is closer to the ocean and cooler than the micro-climate found around Annahala, which lies much closer to Boonville.You can get more info about the characteristics of Anderson Valley's climate by checking out this post.  Here are the update notes posted by Chris Nelson, our consulting winemaker:

Hein - 9/04/2008 - Brix 19.0 - pH 2.97 - Estimated Harvest Start 9/22/08 - End: 10/02/08
Well, we still got time on this vineyard. I had the vineyard crew out last week to open the canopy a bit and remove any green clusters. I expect another 3 weeks until its ready for harvest, so the week of the 22nd. Hopefully the weather will cooperate and we'll make some great wine again in 2008. CN

Anahala - 9/04/2008 - Brix 21.0 - pH 3.20 - Estimated Harvest Start: 9/15/08 - End: 10/10/08
Looking great at Annahala. Well balanced vineyard and the fruit looks perfect. I expect the same quality as 2007. I would guess the week of the 15th or 22nd. I hope to be back there next week. CN

One interesting thing to note is that the Brix levels around this time last year were considerably higher than what is being recorded now, due primarily to much higher temperatures at the end of the 2007 growing season. For example, on 9/08/2004, an average of three blocks of fruit--115, 777, and Pommard clones--was 23.1 Brix. This year temperatures are much more moderate and thus the fruit is ripening at a more steady pace. In fact, even as I write this I noticed this message from Chris in my inbox:

Just got an update from PPV and we're looking at another few weeks. I am happy to let this stuff ripen slowly because this would be the only place in CA that is moving slowly as all the other Pinot vineyards will be in the next week or so. Thank you Anderson Valley.

This sequence of maps will show you exactly where these two vineyards are located in relation to each other. While other factors come into play, such as slope orientation, cluster and leaf thinning practices, etc., for the most part, vineyards in the warmer micro-climate of the valley will ripen sooner and be available for harvesting sooner, all else equal. You can see the NW orientation of Anderson Valley in this first Google Earth image, the white line represents a distance of about 8 miles.

Click images for a larger version

One cool thing about Google Earth is that you can overlay weather onto the map. If you click on the last graphic to get the big image, you can more easily see that the differential in current temperatures readings (as of 6pm PST) between Navarro in the NW and Boonville in the SE is a whopping 25 degrees!

More updates will be posted as we get them.

Jeremy

 

A Visit to Crushpad and Anderson Valley: Day Three

Day three of our trip started off with a nice breakfast at the Anderson Creek Inn, the excellent bed and breakfast we had booked for the night. Immediately we could see that the weather outside looked like it was going to be a lot nicer than the day before--a good omen indeed. I stepped outside and took a few photos of the signature morning fog that rolls into the valley each day from the Pacific before we ate.

This marine influence is a defining characteristic of the region and one reason the diurnal range here is so large (some people say this, in turn, is what helps give Anderson Valley Pinot that distinctive spice flavor on the finish). In addition to the wide fluctuation in temperature throughout the day, there can be a difference of 10 to 15 degrees in air temperature depending on which "End" of the valley you are standing in. The "Deep End", which is at the NW end of the valley, and only 10 or so miles from the ocean, is designated as a much cooler Zone I region, while the "Near End", around Boonville, exhibits warmer Region II characteristics. Below is an excerpt from the 1983 Anderson Valley Notice of Proposed Rulemaking issued by the TTB highlighting the distinct climatic characteristics of the area:

The climate of the proposed Anderson Valley viticultural area includes both Region I and Region II as classified by the University of California at Davis' system of heat summation by degree-days. A table of cumulative degree-days, published by the University of California Agricultural Extension Service Office in Lake, Mendocino, and Sonoma Counties, shows that the area around Philo is relatively cool and consequently is classified as Region I whereas the area around Boonville is warmer and consequently is classified as Region II. In comparison the Ukiah area, which lies approximately 15 miles to the northeast of Anderson Valley, is warmer and consequently is classified as a Region II and Region III area depending on the particular location of the reporting station.

While the climate of the valley can be quite varied there is very little difference in soil makeup from one spot to the next:

The bottom land soils in Anderson Valley are all either derived from old valley filling material, or more recent alluvial deposits. Maps of the area show the same series soils throughout the valley, with the more recent soil types in the majority. Anderson Valley bottom land soils include at least 24 different types.

After finishing off some smoked salmon quiche and coffee we were off. One of our main goals for the day was to check out the Hein vineyard, the only problem, however, was that we forgot to get directions to the site while we were at Crushpad. So with only a rough idea of where the vineyard was located we were left to ask around in hopes of finding someone who could help us. Below are the notes from our favorite stops of the day along with some photos:   

Esterlina Vineyards 

This is a must visit winery. We found the wines, hospitality, and especially the view well worth the trip. We had to call ahead to schedule our tasting, which as you can see from the photos below, was carried out in a spectacular setting.

The perspective from the deck of the winery provides a panoramic view of the entire valley below and on our visit there was a briskness in the air that let you know you were in the mountains. The only downside to being outside was that the wine was too cold to reveal its true character. We are guessing that the air temperature was somewhere around 50 degrees. We tried to warm the glasses with our hands but while the quality of the wine was apparent, especially the Pinot, we felt the aromatics and overall complexity of the wine was restrained to say the least. Good thing we had some shipped back home for us to try later!

Toulouse Vineyards

We spent a lot of time here (and not to mention money!), not only because the wines were interesting to taste, but also because the owner, Vern Boltz, was a venerable walking, talking, encyclopedia of Pinot making knowledge. His energy, enthusiasm, and passion for his craft was contagious.

Our tasting consisted of a vertical of Pinot starting with the winery's first effort in 2002 and ending with a barrel sample from the 2007 vintage. Vern walked us through--in great detail--the recipes behind each vintage and the changes they have made in viticultural practices and winemaking techniques over the years. He had no problems at all pointing out mistakes along the way, as well as discussing the use of oak chips (in the earlier vintages) and the practice of watering back to reduce alcohol levels from time to time. His straight shooting style and willingness to be frank and upfront about his winemaking and experiences certainly earned our respect. It's the same kind of approach that we will embrace here at Covered Bridge Cellars as we build our business and cultivate relationships with our customers.

As for the wines, 2004 seemed to mark the start of some really great stuff from this winery with the 2006 and 2007 Pinots developing very nicely. In addition to being a great guy, Vern helped solve our Hein dilemma by drawing us a map that would lead us to the vineyard. It was our last stop of the day and capped off a fantastic first trip to Anderson Valley. We can't wait to go back! Vern's map and some pictures of the vineyard can be found below. Keep an eye out for a Hein Vineyard specific post in the near future as we will have a lot more to say about the site.

Jeremy & Casey

A Visit to Crushpad and Anderson Valley: Day Two

Entering the Valley - Click Picture for Larger Version

With mist in the air and shadowy grey clouds masking the morning sun we left downtown San Francisco and headed north on route 101 toward wine country. Anderson Valley is only a few hours from the city, yet, it seems much more remote and isolated due to the lack of a major access road. Starting in Cloverdale the only road from the south that allows access to the valley is route 128 which is narrow, steeply graded, and repleat with blind hairpin turns in several sections. Slow driving is necessary and you have to be on the lookout for logging trucks! The landscape here is rugged, with moss covered oak trees standing tall among the continuous rolling hills. After about 45 minutes of slow and steady driving--which brings you through the Yorkville Highlands AVA--the valley floor finally emerges as you enter the hamlet of Boonville. Are first impressions were that the area was rustic, smaller than we had anticipated (this may actually be due to the fact that the Anderson Valley Tour Map is not really to scale!), and all together fascinating. A few viticultural facts about Anderson Valley:

AVA Status Granted: 1983

Vineyard Acerage: Approximately 2,400 acres with Pinot Noir accounting for half of the total

Varietals Grown: Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Riesling, Pinot Gris, Gewurztraminer

Elevation Range: 2000ft to 3000ft

Climatic Zones: Region I and II

Diurnal Range: Daily highs in the 90's and down to 50's at night

Average Annual Rainfall: 40.6 inches

In just over 24 hours in the valley, we were able to visit about nine wineries and really get a good feeling for local winemaking styles, culture and area geography. Our primary goal was to explore the different interpretations of Anderson Valley Pinot Noir while getting to meet some of the people behind the wines. On the first day we visited Goldeneye, Navarro, Husch, Handley, Claudia Springs and Lazy Creek Vineyards. Below are a few thoughts on some of our stops:

Goldeneye - Our first stop. The most visible and well capitalized of the resident Anderson Valley wineries, with a very professional tasting facility and diligently manicured vineyards. The style of winemaking at Goldeneye is unique to the valley in that they are pretty agressive in their use of oak. It was interesting to stop here first, as no other wine in the valley came close to matching this style.

Goldeneye Estate Vineyard - Click Picture for Larger Version

Navarro - This popular winery has a wide selection of reasonably priced wines, including the designated driver friendly pure Pinot Noir and Gewurztraminer grape juices. One of the more interesting features of this stop was the opportunity to taste and compare the filtered and unfiltered versions of their 2005 Pinot Noir. The latter having a much more luscious mouthfeel and costing only a few dollars more than the former.  We ended up ordering a selection of their wines to ship home. From a marketing and business perspective, one can learn a lot from Navarro about how to execute a direct-to-consumer strategy since they have been selling the majority of their wine that way since opening their doors in 1974. So what is the secret to their success in this regard?  Well, having one of the best newsletters in the business helps a lot!

Handley - Another top quality producer, Handley has been around since 1982. Located in the deep end of the valley, winemaker Milla Handley sources fruit from all over the valley for inclusion in the winery's regular and reserve bottlings of Anderson Valley Pinot Noir. In stark contrast to our stop at Navarro, in which the tasting room was literally jam packed, we were the only people to be found at Handley. This afforded us the opportunity to really get into some of the more technical aspects of the Pinot recipes with the tasting room attendant. The winery produces 14,000 cases per year and is located on 59 acres of what used to be a ranch. Nice people and great wine.

Lazy Creek - Our last stop of the day led us to Lazy Creek Vineyards the second oldest winery in the valley, which is owned by Josh and Mary Beth Chandler. The couple purchased the vineyard in 1999 which turns out some highly acclaimed Pinot Noir and Gewurztraminer wines. Lazy Creek's wines can be found on the lists at exclusive restaurants such as French Laundry and Gary Danko. The uniqueness of the site is what makes this winery so special. The original Pinot vines, which were grown from suitecase clones, are more than 35 years old. They survived the phylloxera epidemic because the previous owner, Hans Kobler, didn't bother listening to UC Davis and instead planted the vineyards to St. George rootstock. Yields are ridiculously low, with grapes destined for Lazy Creek's best Pinot offering, the Reserve Puncheon Blend (a cool $100 a bottle), coming in at only .8 tons per acre. One tasting room attendant that we talked to at another winery described the amount of fruit per vine at LCV at harvest as being "scraggly." Josh was a great host, as he poured us his offerings and filled us in on the details of his recipes. He let us wander around the property after our tasting, which included some '06 Pinot still in barrel. What a great place to spend some time, this was definitely the best stop of the day!

The "Truck" at LCV - Click Picture for Larger Version

35 Year Old Pinot Vines - Click Picture for Larger Version

Day two in Anderson Valley coming soon...

Jeremy & Casey